Valle Sagrado
Sincretismo
The Sacred Valley of the Incas runs from the altiplano around Lake Titicaca past Cuzco and Manchu Pichu to the beginning of the incredible Amazon River. I returned there after more than 30 years and my strongest impression was that of an accelerating process, particularly among indigenous people that can be referred to as sincretismo. It’s not a new word of course, but seems to be particularly relevant today, in South America.
Los Sin Dios. Even the meaning of words, or the ‘facts’ of history, are subject to syncretism. For example, I heard for the first time that the origin for the Spanish word ‘los indios’ derives not from Columbus’ mistaking of the new world for the ‘indies’, but from the term, “Los-sin-Dios” literally ‘those-without-God’. While a literature or on line search for evidence to support that claim is rather futile, the idea has significance beyond mere facts, and it does reflect the attitude of the Spanish conquerors. There were some 8 million “Sindios” in the Valle Sagrado alone before Conquistadores arrived to “discover” their world. Today more than three fourths of all Peruvians, Bolivians, and Ecuadorians are Indios. The Andean slopes are lined with literally thousands of miles of neglected terraces where their food was grown. How many years of human toil lie there? As one walks among and on the precisely cut, polished, fitted stones of that vast terraced city fortress, Machu Pichu, there is a sense of walking on the rounded backs of millions of lives. It puts my own little existence in perspective, like looking out at the universe of stars. Yet despite those sober reflections, there is evidence of change, much of it reflected in syncretism.
¡Halloween! El dia de los muertos, is a traditional religious celebration in honor of the dead, and begins a week of festivities in early November. Even the most remote altiplano cemetery is crowded with celebrants, processions, music, and feasting. Churches are filled with worshipers and flowers. In addition, the indios have found that Halloween is consistent with their love of celebration, of music, dance, and bright masked costumed revelry. On arriving in Puno, I was amazed to see many signs featuring Jack O’ lanterns and the admonition ¡Feliz Halloween! Until late at night on the 31st of October the narrow streets were clotted with adults and children in witch’s costumes, painted faces and bodies, gaudy hair dress, masks, and every outrageous costume imaginable. Packs of children invaded stores and restaurants until late at night for hand outs of candy or trinkets. Meanwhile in the press and on TV, somber ‘civilized’ folk agonized over the evils of a foreign and barbarous cultural invasion. For indigenous people however, Halloween is in perfect harmony with their most cherished traditions; they don’t give a hoot for the concerns of the credentialed classes; the witch, the Owl, the black cat and crow, the Dracula mask, treats, and revelry are perfectly syncretic in Puno, if not in Lima (yet). While Santa has long ago invaded South America, he still seems a bit awkward, overheated, and out of place; Jack is right at home.
Sobrante 